The Kahr frame assembly is fairly straight forward, but can be a bit tricky if you’ve never removed and reinstalled the trigger mechanism. Removal is very easy. It’s the getting it back together part that can be a head scratcher! So I’ve taken on the abuse to show you how it’s done (you’re welcome), and after performing this a few times, well, it’s not that bad a job after all.
This will apply to many of the Kahr models, but shown is the PM9 series, and in this case it’s a PM9193. That’s the one with the external safety and loaded chamber indicator to make it Massachusettes compliant. I’m not in Massachusetts, but wanted this particular model because Kahr enhanced the trigger (a shorter pull).
So what’s the first thing you do after running some rounds through it if you’re someone like me? You tear into it with a complete disassembly for a thorough inspection, some polishing, and the best cleaning it will ever have, right? Right. Hey, I already know what some of you folks are thinking, so just shut it already. LOL. Look, it’s going to be my carry gun, and I just need to make sure everything is as it should be. Now on to this bit of instruction.
The tools you’ll need are just your very basic smithing tools, plus a tool to assist in depressing a spring tensioned cup into place (you’ll see), and, of course, a flashlight. I dug through my shop and found that an old brake adjustment tool had the perfect shape. This article only contains the steps necessary to ‘reassemble’ the trigger. That’s the part that people seems to have trouble with. And rightly so.
First step: Let’s make a couple reference marks. This will really help you to orient the trigger spacer, and for this you’ll be marking both the spacer and the trigger with a marker or Sharpie. Insert the spacer into the trigger with the flat side of the spacer down as shown. This spacer is what holds the trigger bar in place. Now make sure the flat ‘edge’ of the spacer faces the trigger lever. This is the only way it can go and function correctly. Note the trigger is already marked with a Sharpie.
Now mark the spacer itself to the mark on the trigger. These will be your reference points when you’re placing it in the frame. The “reference points” are used to locate any frame reference location for alignment because you won’t be able to see the trigger’s mark once the trigger bar is attached.
Ok, next, be sure the spring is placed in the correct orientation. The straight leg is the frame stop and the curved leg rests inside the trigger.
Second Step: Insert and pin the trigger. You’ll insert the trigger from inside the trigger guard. Insert the trigger pivot pin from the right side only, and only far enough to keep the trigger retained in place.
As you can see in the following pic, the pivot pin is just partially inserted.
Now check for a reference point from the earlier marks you made. Insert the spacer, align it to the trigger’s mark and get a visual of some area on the frame that you’ll use when install the set (spacer and spring). I did it with the spring in place but it will be much easier to leave the spring off for this.
Next Step: The trigger bar. You probably want to follow these steps pretty closely because if you try and hold this in one hand while you complete the installation, you’ll just get frustrated. Your methods may vary, but I happen to think using tape was the easiest.
The trigger bar is inserted through the access plate.
Once installed and hooked into the trigger, insert a magazine. This will help keep the trigger bar in place.
Then use tape to keep the bar in place while freeing your hands for the next step.
Moving On: Now to the nitty gritty (sorry, didn’t mean to say “gritty” in a trigger article). Using your small needle nose pliers, guide the spacer and spring into place.
I find using the Sharpie to support the gun via the trigger/guard gives you a decent position and angle. You’re just laying the parts in place with the idea to make sure the mark aligns with the reference point you’ve selected earlier. Note that the straight leg of the spring is in the proper position.
Remove the pliers and get ready with whatever tool you’ve come up with the push the two components into place while you push the pivot pin through. In my case I used that mentioned brake adjuster tool.
Ease the spacer and spring down and into position until aligned and push the pivot pin into place. Did you hit the spot and get the pivot pin through on the first try? Good going! This tool is a life saver. Nothing slips around and it gives you good control. Yay.
Final Steps: Once everything appears to work, is smooth with no binding, you’re ready to wrap it up. Get that trigger bar spring into place, lubed, the side cover plate installed, and call your friends to go shooting! Here’s the orientation of the trigger bar spring.
Installed. Make sure the lower leg is in the retaining groove.
Add some lube. This white stuff is Lubrikit SFL-B Grease (commercial food grade Lubriplate).
And put the cover in place.
That’s it! You are now a master Kahr trigger installer. I believe it’s Miller time! Enjoy!